Tuesday, June 5, 2012

Kanchipuram - (Earth Element)

Located 70km southwest of Chennai, Kanchipuram is known as the “Golden City of Temples.” It is considered one of the seven main sacred cities of India. It has over one hundred temples now, but at one time it is said to have had about one thousand. Kanchipuram is believed to give eternal happiness to one who goes there. Eventhough Kanchipuram was the capital of the Pallavas rulers from the 7th to 9th centuries, it also played important role during the Chola, Vijayanagar, and Nayaka periods. It is an ancient place. It was mentioned in the Mahabhasya, written by Patanjali in the 2nd century BC.


                                                                        
 

Ramanujacharya lived in Kanchipuram during his youth, and Sri Chaitanya visited here 500 years ago. Four of the Alwars—Pey Alwar, Poygai Alwar, Bhutatt Alwar, and Thirumalisai—were born within 50 miles of Kanchipuram. Kanchipuram is famous for hand-woven silk fabrics and saris. The weavers use the highest quality silk and pure gold thread. This place is known to be the best source of high quality hand-woven silk items, and Varanasi is known to be the best place for machine-made silk items.

The city of Kanchipuram is on the north bank of the Vegavati River. The bus stand is in the center of town on Kamaraj Street (also called Kossa St), which goes north-south through the center of the city. The railway station is in the eastern part of the town, about 2½ km from the river. The temples and hotels are scattered within about 3km of the bus station, in the center of town. Siva Kanchipuram is west of the railway station, and Vishnu Kanchipuram is about 3km southeast.

The temples are well spread out across the city and you need at least four hours to see the major ones. You can have a cycle-rickshaw driver take you around to the temples for Rs 50 to Rs 100, depending on how many temples you go to see.


                                                                    
        

You have to visit the temples either in the morning or late afternoon, as they are closed between 12.30 and 4 pm .

The tourist office (631-502) is at the Hotel Tamil Nadu, Kamatchi Amman Sannadhi St. The Archaeological Survey of India office is helpful. It is located opposite the Kailasanatha Temple.

The State Bank of India (22987), 16 Gandhi Rd, only accepts travelers checks. Some other banks change cash.

The Head Post Office (22080), Railway Rd, is open Mon to Fri 9 am to 5 pm. Internet at Dishnet, 81C Kamaraja St (Hours: 9 am to 9 pm) for Rs 25 per hour. In the summer, temperatures are between 21ºC (70ºF) and 37ºC (98ºF), and in the winter the range is 20ºC (68ºF) to 29ºC (84ºF).

Sri Ekambaranatha Temple This temple is dedicated to Lord Siva and is the largest temple in Kanchipuram. This temple is also known as the Ekam­bareswara Temple. The Pallava kings built parts of the main temple, but the rest of the temple complex was mainly built in the 16th and 17th centuries. It has the towering 60m (188 ft) high Raja Gopuram, which was built by Krishna Deva Raya of the Vijayanagar Empire in 1509. No two towers of the temple are opposite each other, nor are the walls of the temple parallel to each other.

There are almost no right angles in the temple. It has a 1,000-pillar hall (actually 540). Most of the pillars are intricately and beautifully carved. There is a mango tree behind the inner sanctum (main temple) that is said to be 3,500 years old. It has four branches, said to represent the four Vedas (sacred Hindu scriptures). Each leaf of this tree is a different shape. The name of the deity itself is believed to have been derived thus: Eka-Amra-Natha, meaning the “Lord of the Mango Tree.” The fruit from each branch has a different taste.

In the path around the tree is a Siva-linga made of 108 small lingas and another one made up of 1008 lingas. You should circle around the tree clockwise (the other way is considered inauspicious). The huge linga is known as the Prithvi-linga, or earth linga.

The other four are the Agni-linga (fire) at Thiruvannamalai, the Appu-linga (water) at Jambukeswara, the Vayu-linga (air) at Kalahasti, and the Akasha-linga (ether) at Chidambaram.

The story of the temple is that while Lord Siva was meditating, Parvati playfully covered his eyes for a moment. This resulted in the earth being covered with darkness for years. This angered Siva who cursed Parvati to go to earth and do severe penance. She came to earth and created the earth linga and worshiped it under a single (eka) mango tree in Kanchipuram. Siva sent different obstacles to test Parvati’s sincerity. When he sent a flood, she clasped to the linga so tightly that imprints were made on it. It is believed that if a woman seeking a child worships here, her desire will be fulfilled.

Non-Hindus are not allowed in the inner sanctum. This temple is between North Made and West Made Streets in the northwest part of the city. Open 6 am to 12.30 pm and 4 to 8 pm. There is a Rs 5 camera fee.


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